November 07, 2009
同28
Joël Robuchon's latest Atelier outpost grabbed all the headlines at the newly opened BellaVita complex in the midst of the fashionable Xinyi District. As well it should, as it instantly becomes the finest French dining destination in Taipei, with its Michelin star-winning pedigree. On the other hand, I still wouldn't take mom or grandma there since they're just not appreciative of frou-frou Western cuisines (believe me I've tried). On the other hand, Japanese cuisine has long been a high-end staple in Taiwan, and it's appreciated by everyone from conservative oba-sans to West-obsessed young people. So as a high-end dining destination, it behooves Bellavita to also feature a flagship Japanese restaurant. The owners were appreciative of the high-end 同壽司 sushi-bar down the street, and invited its young chef to open a full restaurant. Thus 同28 was created. It's convenient location makes for a good location for a family meal, and the uncles ponied up for a night out for grandma, and we got invited to help fill out the table.
The main dining room featured a long sushi bar and tables for couples and small groups. But we were ushered through narrow corridors to one of the private rooms with the large Chinese-style round table, with nice views of the Mitsukoshi complex across the street and Taipei101 in the distance. Halogen spots lit each seat in the evening, but the natural light from the windows suffused the room during the day felt more comfortable and better complimented of the blonde wood decor. Good thing the private suite featured its own bathroom, because once you open the thick door to leave there's no distinguishing sign to mark your room. Between the main room and the private suites the restaurant is carefully designed to accommodate hip young couples out for seen-and-be-seen as well as discreet moneyed folk treating customers or the extended family to a fancy meal.
The cuisine is Japanese kaiseki-style, but they do try to incorporate some Western-fusion elements into the dishes, not always successfully but the effort is worthy of appreciation. There was a nice variety of dishes between two visits, a good sign that they menu won't get stale over time. Being newly open and eager to woo high-rolling regulars, the chef was quite generous with both the quantity and quality of the food. Almost too much so, as we were almost uncomfortably full and one feels way too guilty leaving such fine food uneaten.
Family kindly indulged my DSLR at the table, so I will (mostly) let the food speak for itself. It was all quite tasty, but I was glad that I wasn't responsible for the final bill. Frankly, one can visit Robuchon properties at a great many places. But the combination of Japanese-style kaiseki cuisine with Chinese-style banquet portions is a uniquely Taiwan combination and a darn good value, even if the service efficiency isn't quite up to three-star standards.
- Appetizers
The chef obviously wants to start the meal with a bang here. Slices of perfectly roasted duck breast covering a generous chunk of foie gras, more French than Japanese.
Mixed greens, whole abalone on the half-shell, garnished with pomegrante seeds. A bit of truffle is shaved into the Japanese-style soy-vinegar dressing for luxurious effect. - Sashimi and Sushi
The sashimi plate featured top-notch everything, even the salmon which is wild not farmed. The shrimp's feelers were still waving weakly despite the de-shelling and decapitation. And don't forget that perfect piece of luciously fatty tuna belly toro hiding in the back there. Particularly notable is the sweet raw oyster garnished with lemon and salmon roe. A bit of raw bar with the raw fish.
A uni hand roll, deconstructed. The sea urchin roe and nori sauce on rice are laid out on a romaine leaf, garnished with salmon roe on top. Felt like there were few too many elements which distracted a bit from the flavor of the uni itself. Ume-pickled tomato goes to the wife. Dad gets the pickled ginger.
Sushi East-West style. Wild anago eel is less slimy and much rarer than the more typical unagi. The seared foie gras was full of rich, fatty juices inside. The vinegar rice ball hidden under the massive slices of topping helped to moderate and balance the flavors in the mouth.
They brought out another big plate of sushi compliments of the chef, just in case were were still hungry. Soft-shell crab maki-sushi coated with bonito flakes. Chopped tuna maki roll coated with chopped scallion greens. Actually I was quite full but I couldn't help but have a piece of that. Both are favorites of mine and I would've been happy to have made a meal out of just that.
Sakura somen in mintaiko-cream sauce, which was a bit too adventurous for the older folks at the table. The 烏魚子 mullet roe on top is expensive stuff, but the intensely fishy taste kinda obliterated any delicacy of the remaining ingredients. - Seafood
The shrimp heads from the sashimi plate weren't waving their antennae anymore after being deep-fried for a mid-meal snack. The tamago egg roll in rich crab broth is something tasty and different. Although the wife liked it better than I did.
Fresh steamed scallop on tofu with uni sauce dressed with scallions. Almost Cantonese in the preparation.
When they said the chef was sending out something complementary we weren't expecting a whole platter of stir-fried lobster. It was toward the end of the meal and way too much to finish. But thankfully we could take it away and it reheated nicely for dinner. - Meat Entree
Wagyu beef in cubes, almost like how it'd be served at a teppanyaki. Like the typical Japanese beef course, what it lacks in portion size it more than makes up for with the tender, flavorful meat essence in each small cube.
Beef tendon and gobo root, roasted in leaf-wrap. The slow roasting softens the tendons and infused the gelatinous rounds with the soy sauce and herbaceous leaf aromas. Mom liked the slightly bitter gingko nuts. - Dessert
Cream-puff with pralines, sprinkled with macha powder was very tasty. The butterfly is edible ink printed on corn-styrofoam, edible but not tasty at all. The coffee was perfectly competent and complimented the western-style dessert well.
同28
台北市信義區松仁路28號6樓
Bellavita 6F
02-2722-2888