April 03, 2010
Saveurs
I've not been all that impressed with French-cuisine in Taiwan (non-Robuchon division), but mostly because they tended to try too hard to be fancy and upscale and end up seeming old-fashioned instead. What's missing is the unassuming corner bistro that would be lost amongst the crowd in Paris, but would shine like a unique star in the alleys of Taipei. Well, what I missed others have found, as Hungry Girl In Taipei's Reader Poll Award gave the Best French award to Saveurs. Exactly the sort of little bistro serving authentic, non-haute, French cuisine at a fair price.
So when the baby was taking a long, late nap, we sneaked out for dinner and let the nanny hold down the fort. Good thing I'd done my research because it would've been easy to miss the unassuming restaurant hidden in a back alley behind the Renai-Fuxing intersection. A few tables outside in a courtyard inset from the alley offered overflow seating or even a first option on a nicer day. The menu covers were well-worn, but the inset contents were freshly printed, offering a varying menu of seasonal dishes. We usually only order one prix fixe set meal plus one entrée a la carte to share between us. But it was only a couple hundred NT more to add appetizer, soup, and dessert, and all the appetizer and dessert options looked good on the menu, so both of us got full meals this time.
Almost thought my appetizer was an entrée when it came out. Big grilled shrimps, on a layer of vinegared greens salad with mozzarella-parmesan cheese crisp on the bottom. Not fancy ingredients but cooked and arranged beautifully. Wife had escargot drenched with shockingly green parsley sauce, which thankfully isn't quite as strong as it looks. The fresh-baked bread with good butter and even better tapenade spread also deserve commendation.
I love how they translated Duck Confit as 功夫鴨 (Kung-Fu Duck), which works perfectly as a phoenetic transliteration, as well as evokes the slow-cooking process of the confit. Not much to the presentation, as it was just the duck leg on a plate with broccoli, carrots, and a round of potato-au-gratin. The duck itself was excellent, though, with crisp skin and flavorful meat, drizzled with pan juices. Wife had mushroom-and-gravy chicken, which one can find in almost every Western value-style restaurant in Taiwan. But here the sauce is a step up from the usual sweetened goop served in Taiwan, the French-trained chef doing it full justice.
Creme brulee was de rigeur and tasty enough but nothing special. The Île Flottante, on the other hand, is a very French dessert that's rarely seen around here. Soft, fluffy egg-white meringue floating on a lake of vanilla creme anglais. Simple and attractive, and not too sweet, which always appeals to the Chinese clientele.
It was a pleasant and satisfying meal, and a good value for under 1500NT. The business lunches are even cheaper, but our schedules do not allow us to take advantage of the deal. There's still plenty left on the menu that looked awfully tempting (rack of lamb! warm chocolate cake! etc., etc.), so I'm sure we'll be back at some point.
Saveurs 歐洲風味餐坊
台北市復興南路一段219巷14號
02-2751-0185